Get 222 Tips for Building Model Railroad Structures PDF

By Dave Frary

Professional assistance and methods for development plastic, wooden, plaster, paper, and steel buildings. comprises roofing, portray, weathering, and detailing info.

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MUD SPATTERS ON STRUCTURE BASES A fine airbrushed spray of Floquil Mud or Earth where the structure meets the ground does a good job of simulating dirt kicked up onto the sides of the building by rain falling off the eaves. Two constraints: Don't use this effect on every building, and use it only on buildings without conspicuous gutters and downspouts. Choose the color so that the mud spatters match the surrounding earth colors on your layout. UNDERPAINTING No, this isn't a technique you apply in your The idea with underpainting is that you skivvies!

Because it's made from a very shiny plastic material most glues and cements won't hold it in place. I've had the best Incidentally, if you model New England, most kits have too much roof overhang for New England buildings. Simply trim the gable ends and eaves before you apply the roof to the building, using a photo from your prototype area for reference. APPLYING CAMPBELL SHINGLES The gummed brown kraft-paper shingles that have long been part of most Campbell kits are wonderful for simulating the texture of wood-shingled roofs.

If your result looks a little "striped," subseple. quent washes and some light dry-brushing will blend it all together. POUNCE WHEELS FOR NAIL-HOLE DETAIL Seamstresses use pounce wheels to transfer paper patterns to fabric; the wheel punches dozens of tiny holes through the pattern, then chalk powder worked through the perforations wheel down the side of the wall, leaving a neat row the of holes. The wheels come in a variety of sizes — 15 and 21 holes per inch ones are best for modeling. If you don't want to be seen at the fabric store, Vintage Reproductions offers a set of "rivet embossing and they look like pounce tools" which work fine — wheels to me!

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